These are just a few of the most commonly asked questions our staff encounters at our stores in Southern Nevada. Southern Utah and Southern Arizona. Please note that the answers are also somewhat regionally specific to the Southwest. If you have gardening and landscaping questions not listed please send your question directly to DR. Q.
What kind of plants are best for my yard? (Most often asked by people new to the area, but not asked often enough before purchase.)
Before this question can be answered, other things must be considered! Where are you going to plant it- -south, west, east or north exposure; near a reflected heat source like a west-facing wall? Will it be exposed to strong, drying winds, either hot or cold? Will it be subjected to lawn water or sprinkler overspray? Will it withstand frost and freezing temperatures? Understand the sun, shade, and water requirements of your plant selection before you plant it! Browse your local nursery or garden center and read the signs. Ask a sales associate for specific information if you're not sure, and ask for any literature that may be available. With this information, you'll be able to pick plants that will complement your landscape and more importantly will stand a greater chance of survival. Star Note 530 has a list of recommended plants for hot, dry climates. Folks in other parts of the country can also check with their University Cooperative Extension Services for ideas.
What is the best way to plant this (shrub, tree, ground cover, etc)? Probably the most frequently asked question.
Soils in the southwest are most often barren, i.e., have little or no organic matter, poor drainage and are excessively salty or alkaline. For most plants, this means special planting instructions are needed. For specific, step-by-step instructions, see our StarNote 001, Planting Guide.
Avoid placing any dirt over the root system, this will cause suffocation and eventual plant death.
Use Dr. Q's products, specifically designed for our desert soils, and you have the best chance to succeed. This is the best way to protect your investment and have a well-planted yard. Cut corners, use incomplete compost or fertilizer and you increase the risk of losing your plants, and having to spend more time and money later.
The leaves on my plants are pale, yellowish-green with dark green veins, what is wrong with them and what can I do to make them look better?
Your problem is very likely chlorosis, or not enough iron or manganese being taken up by the plant. In heavy, alkaline desert soils, this is often caused by watering too frequently rather than an actual lack of nutrients in the soil. Water deeply and infrequently rather than sprinkle daily. Plants need to breathe just like people. Constantly wet soil causes root damage and inhibits the uptake of oxygen, water and nutrients by the plant. Once your watering schedule is fixed, the problem may correct by itself. If not, then add a chelated iron supplement like KeRexg or Ironiteg to correct the problem. Leaves that are uniformly pale yellow, most often, signal a nitrogen deficiency. This is easily corrected by using a good garden fertilizer like Dr Q's. Be sure to water thoroughly before and after application.
This is a difficult question, no matter what the circumstances. It has probably gotten more different answers than any other question. To arrive at the correct answer, you must take several things into account: (1) Plants with similar water needs should be on the same watering schedule. Desert and traditional plants have vastly different water needs. (2) What kind of soil do you have- -sandy, heavy clay, caliche, loam or a combination of these? Plants growing in different types of soil also have different water needs. (3) Are your plants in full sun or full shade? Are they subject to strong winds, especially during the hottest part of the day? (4) Shallow rooted plants need water more frequently than plants with extensive, deep root systems. These plants should be placed on a different watering schedule. Now to the heart of the matter! Most shrubs and trees do best with deep, widely spaced irrigation. How long it takes to do this is subjective and depends largely on soil makeup as well as size and type of plants. Remember to adjust your watering schedule each season. Plants use less water in cold weather and the soil gives it up more slowly than in summer. For more detailed information and recommendations, see StarNote 900, How Much Should You Water? When in doubt, err on the side of conservatism. We have a saying in the desert southwest, "The worse they look, the more you water; the more you water, the worse they look until they die." By the way, new plants need more water, sometimes daily, until they are established. Plants generally need one growing season to be considered fully established. When watering trees it is very important to water the entire area under the canopy, not just next to the trunk.
I before E, except after C, or, fertilizers change with the seasons, unless they are slow release. Confused? Here is the explanation: During the hot summer months, balanced fertilizers lower in nitrogen, like Dr. Q's Jackpot or Triple Play (7-7-7) and Super Iron ( 9-9-9 ) are good choices. They give you controlled growth and have extra iron for deep green color. Dr. Q's Royal Flush (16-4-8) is an organic-based, continuous release fertilizer that is very effective in spring and fall. Its continuous feeding formula promotes rapid greenup and ensures complete, even feeding of turf throughout the season. It's organic based granules condition your soil at the same time. During the cool season, late fall through early spring, Dr. Q's Winter Gem (21-3-7) or Best Nitra King (22-3-9) are specially formulated to help lawns keep that nice green color and withstand the stress of cold temperatures. GARDEN TIP: Be sure to apply a cool season fertilizer before the first heavy frost, or your lawn may go dormant until warmer weather arrives. See StarNote 810, Fertilizing & Maintaining Your Lawn , for more information.
Most seasonal lawn fertilizers call for feeding every 4-6 weeks. Slow and continuous release types are usually effective for 10-12 weeks. Some publications and garden gurus call for feeding on every 3-day weekend. Factors like soil condition and frequency of irrigation also affect fertilization. Hard, crusty soil, salty or alkaline soil, or heavy thatch prevents nutrients from effectively reaching the lawn's root system. Over watering leaches the nutrients away before they can be absorbed. Most people tend to over fertilize. This is bad for the environment and bad for the pocketbook. Use good cultural practices, i.e., proper mowing, raking and watering, then let your grass tell you when it needs fertilizer. Look at your lawn critically every few days. If the color is nice and green, don't fertilize. If the color is a little bit off, or light, feed the lawn. Many people using this method find that they only fertilize about 3-4 times a year.
My leaves have brown tips and large brown spots, what's the problem?
Most likely summer stress. This is generally caused by putting the wrong plant in the wrong place, watering improperly?usually too much or too often, or fertilizing incorrectly. If the leaves on top show the symptoms you describe, but the under growth is in good shape, it's a clear sign of sunburn. See StarNote 135, Summer Stress in the Desert , for detailed information. If it's not the warm season, poor drainage and improper watering might be the cause.
It's generally easier to grow roses in the desert southwest than in other parts of the country. We have a long growing season and our dry climate naturally retards diseases like rust and black spot. There are some problems with powdery mildew, usually caused by overhead sprinkling, but these are easily corrected. Our mild winters make it necessary to force roses into a dormant state so they will perform properly in the spring. This means stripping all leaves and hard pruning roses in January; climbing roses and minis require a different pruning approach. Extreme summer heat puts roses located in south and west exposures into a semi-dormant state. Don't fertilize them during this time. For complete rose information, see StarNote 520, Rose Selection, Care and Planting . For camaraderie and friendship with other rose lovers in Southern Nevada , contact the Las Vegas Valley Rose Society at 646-6048, the Clark County Cooperative Extension Office at 222-3130, or call your county extension office for information on a society near you.
Though none are native to our area, most fruit trees can be grown successfully. Some of the best choices are Almonds, Apricots, Figs, Peaches, Pears and Pomegranates. Certain apples and plums also do well. Dwarf varieties are good for container growing or landscape planting. Our mild winters have a significant impact on how well the trees will bear. See StarNotes 500, Fruit Tree Selection, Planting and Care , and 505, Fruit Trees for Desert Climates , for a complete discussion of winter chilling factors and fruit tree varieties.
In our area, the dwarf citrus varieties are best. Our extremes of heat and cold make planting citrus directly in the garden an iffy proposition. It's much better to plant in containers like redwood tubs or large pots, so you can protect them from severe cold. Dwarf trees produce tasty, full-sized citrus fruit. For a complete listing of varieties and cold tolerances, see StarNote 510, Growing Citrus in Our Climate .
