Growing tomatoes is a great start to a vegetable garden, and every tomato lover dreams of growing the ultimate tomato: firm, but juicy; sweet, but tangy; aromatic and blemish-free—PERFECTION. With the right preparation and a bit of planning, you can conquer your garden fears and get “Totally Tomatoes” this season! Success is within your reach when you master the art of proper placement, timing, fertilizing, and watering in our unique desert climate.
Timing is Everything
In the desert, we have two distinct tomato seasons. If you miss these windows, the heat or frost will likely claim the crop.
- Spring Season: Plant transplants in late February to March (after the danger of frost). The goal is to get fruit to set before temperatures consistently hit 90°F (32°C), which causes blossoms to drop.
- Fall Season: Plant in late July to August. These plants will produce as the weather cools down in September and October.
Growth Habits: Determinate vs. Indeterminate
Understanding how your tomato grows is the key to managing your harvest window.
- Determinate (Usually Bush) Varieties: These plants grow to a fixed mature size and ripen all their fruit in a short period, usually 2–3 weeks. Because they produce a bulk harvest all at once, they are usually the preferred canning varieties.
- Indeterminate (Typically Vining) Varieties: These continue to grow, bloom, and set fruit throughout the season until the first frost.
- The Desert Strategy: We encourage growing smaller indeterminate tomatoes (like cherries, grapes and Early Girl) with shorter days to harvest. Their smaller size allows them to ripen quickly before the peak summer heat sets in, providing you with multiple harvests.
The Heat Risk: Days on the Vine
The longer a tomato stays on the vine, the longer it is exposed to harsh desert conditions.
- Dry Summer Effects: Extended exposure to extreme heat and low humidity increases the risk of sun scalding, fruit cracking or toughened skins.
- Shorter Maturity: Selecting varieties with fewer “days to harvest” helps ensure the fruit is picked before the most intense summer heat arrives.
Proper Placement & Protection
In the Desert Southwest, placement is about more than just light; it’s about temperature management.
- Morning Sun: Tomatoes need 6–8 hours of sun, but the afternoon desert sun is too intense. Choose a spot with East-facing exposure to provide morning light and natural afternoon shade.
- Heat Protection: If afternoon shade is not possible, protect your plants using a shade cloth (max 50% UVB blockage) or a burlap cover to shield them from intense heat; specifically, during June, July, and into August.
Soil Preparation & Proper Fertilizing
Our native “caliche” (hard clay) is the enemy of tomatoes; therefore, soil preparation is vital.
- Raised Beds: Highly recommended for better drainage and temperature control.
- Amendments: Use a mix of 50% native soil and 50%Dr. Q’s Paydirt™ or a Dr Q’s Vegetable & Herb Planting Mix.
- Fertilizer: Use Dr. Q’s Tomato & Vegetable Food or Dr. Q’s Stardust Organic Starter Fertilizer. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers once the plant is established, as too much nitrogen results in a beautiful green bush but very little fruit.
Proper Irrigation
- Consistency is Key: Inconsistent watering leads to Blossom End Rot, which appears as a black leathery spot on the bottom of the fruit. This is a calcium deficiency caused by inconsistent moisture levels; without a steady stream of water, the plant cannot transport calcium to the fruit.
- Manage Soil Salts: In our unique climate, inconsistent watering also causes excess soil salts to build up around the root zone. Frequent, shallow watering or allowing the soil to dry out completely between waterings prevents these salts from leaching away, which can burn the roots and stress the plant.
- Deep Soaking: Water deeply at the base of the plant to flush out salts and encourage deep roots. Avoid wetting the leaves to prevent disease, and ensure the soil stays moist but not soggy.
Star Nursery: Top 10 Recommended Tomato Varieties
| Variety | Type | Description | Days to Harvest |
| Amy’s Sugar Gem | Indeterminate | An heirloom/cherry cross with loads of super sweet, golf ball-sized fruit. A “sun tolerant” variety. | ~70 Days |
| Better Boy | Indeterminate | Large, red fruit great for slicing. Welcomes morning sun and rich well drained soil. Use mulch to keep soil cool and suppress weeds. | ~75 Days |
| Celebrity | Determinate | Popular variety that grows into medium-sized red fruit. Use Blossom Set Spray to increase yield. | ~70 Days |
| Chocolate Sprinkles | Indeterminate | Beautiful 1-1.5″ elongated cherries; deep coppery-red with dark green stripes. Rich, sweet flavor, very productive. | ~70 Days |
| Early Girl | Indeterminate | Early ripening with flavorful red fruit. Fantastic for slicing; likes amended soil. | ~54 Days |
| Heatwave II | Determinate | Disease resistant; excellent in the heat. Produces great tasting, medium-sized fruit. | ~68 Days |
| Juliet Grape | Indeterminate | Bright red grape-shaped fruit that appears all season long. A “sun tolerant” variety. | ~70 Days |
| Roma | Determinate | Reliable old favorite. Disease resistant with few seeds; excellent sauce/canning tomato. | ~75 Days |
| Sugar Rush | Indeterminate | Super-sweet, elongated cherries. High-yielding 6ft tall plant that produces long trusses of firm fruits with a real crunch. A “sun tolerant” variety and very productive. | ~55 Days |
| Yellow Pear | Indeterminate | Heavy bearer of small yellow pear-shaped fruit. Low-acid, ideal for salads or canning. | ~75 Days |